Destination Review: Bonaire Diving

First Thoughts

OK, everybody knows Bonaire and there have been enough re-run dive magazine articles on it for the past 20 years to choke a donkey. But there are a few things that everybody knows about like a very successful marine park but a lot that only the locals do. Bonaire is a cool enough place to live in fact, we did.

If you want an all around great Caribbean destination, Bonaire is it. Deemed the divers paradise, it lives up to its name in its own laid back way. Shore diving is easy and safe (though we don’t recommend leaving anything in your vehicle, there have been thefts) from over 60 dive sites on the leeward side of the island. It is the easiest diving you’ll ever do.
One of things often missed by shore divers is the sand flats. Most divers simply kick out to the buoy from shore or drop down just below the surface and don’t even look until they reach the drop off. But here is where we have found some of the most fascinating creatures. Sometimes it takes us 30 minutes just to get to the drop off as we watch sailfin blennies, pike blennies, squid, snake eels and jawfish on the way out to the dive site marker buoys. Shore diving in Bonaire gives you total freedom to do your thing your way. However, boat diving, of course is available with the longest possible run being about 30 minutes with calm seas most every day of the year and no possibility of sand in your regulator!

Why We Think Bonaire Rocks or Doesn’t

After 9/11, we went down and lived in Bonaire. We hung out, dived every day, lived the island life, met really cool people and REALLY explored the island and its diving. We’d gear up each morning in our kitchen and go out for the early AM dive, come back and have breakfast on the patio and then put gear into the truck and roll out for the day. We’d stop along the way at the grocery store and stop by the local fish guys place on the way home to pick up some wahoo or mahi to throw on the grill. We’d drive back roads and stop off in the small towns. We dove the seldom dived sites and sites with no names. Did you know that Bonaire has interesting cave diving (and snorkeling), great mangrove snorkeling and cool diving on the windward side of the island where you can see pelagics like sharks. Yeah, we didn’t either.

Bonaire has a small population of just 15,000 inhabitants giving a quiet island feel. But that doesn’t mean there’s no adventure!!

Washington Slagbaai National Park in the north of Bonaire is a great way to spend a day. You can do some great birding, photograph flamingoes to your hearts content and even shore dive up there. Just south of the park is the town of Rincon and other small villages where you can find wonderful local cuisine including goat or chicken stew or a good iguana soup. The east side of the island which is its windward side is completely different. It offers a different type of diving during the calm season (summer) with possibilities of larger pelagics including sharks and turtles. Often people say there are no big fish in Bonaire and for the most part it’s true. However, I spotted my first whale shark just 30 feet offshore of Karpata dive site.

On the southeast and southwest side of Bonaire the adventure continues with the opportunity to enjoy world class kite sailing as well as land sailing.

Things that Rock

• A marine park that produces results
• Some nice beaches
• Great kite surfing
• A GREAT beginner diver destination yet with diving for all levels
• Slaagbai National Park in the north, easy to rent a car and cruise.
• Mountain biking
• The worlds easiest shore diving
• Great combination of European, South American and Bonairian feel laid back.
• Having local cuisine like goat and iguana stew…got to try it!
• Picturesque, quaint town of Kralendijk
• Diving with Erwin and Ebby

Things that Don’t

• Bonaire is usually dead after 10:00PM. If you want nightlife, it’s not for you.
• Petty theft from divers has become common
• Lazy attitude from some divemasters
• Very little pelagic life or big fish at least on the west side.

The Diving

Bonaire is boomerang shaped with all but a couple of dive sites situation on the west or leeward side of the island. Most of the sites sit within a hundred yards from shore making diving easy from shore or by day boat. The tiny island of Klein Bonaire itself boasts 26 dive sites accessible only by boat. Klein got nuked by a hurricane a few years ago but is bouncing back. The sites on the east by near Lac Bay are only diveable during the calm season. I have dived here by kayak out from Lac Bay.

If you are a cave diver, there are caves to dive on the island but you need to find a local cave diver to take you. It is not yet commercially available and is kept fairly quiet. Diving the Salt Pier is a must and the signature night dive the Town Pier is just bouncing back after much of the life encrusting the columns getting thrashed in a storm.

Bonaire Marine Park

It became a National Marine Park in 1979 and is truly leading the way. It may not be perfect and the locals still fish in the park and there is a notable absence of large grouper or any sharks. But many Caribbean nations or areas around the world for that matter – would do well to follow the precedence set by Bonaire. The rules are reasonable as are the fees (unlike Cocos Island or Galapagos) and the park has remained in good condition now for the past 30 years. It is administered by STINAPA and you can check out the website at www.bmp.org. The park extends from the high water mark to a depth of 200 ft. It has a long history of marine protection beginning with turtle protection in 1961, the prohibition of spear fishing in 1971 and the protection of corals dead or alive in 1975. All you have to do is look at how good the reefs look in Bonaire and compare that to the Caribbean wide degradation we are seeing. 50% of the coral has been lost in the last 20 years in the Caribbean but not in Bonaire.
Because of the marine park, Bonaire continues to enjoy great biodiversity for Caribbean waters and fairly healthy fish populations.

Land Based or Live aboard in Bonaire?
No such thing as a live aboard on Bonaire. With all dive sites within about 100 yards of shore it wouldn’t make sense. Your choice on Bonaire is shore or day boat diving or a combo of the two.

Our Favorite Things to Do Out of the Water

We believe in Surf and Turf checking out the best of underwater AND on land. It just so happens that most of the worlds best SCUBA diving destinations have other amazing things going for them in addition to kick ass diving. Don’t miss it.

• Kite surfing Lac Bay
• Driving south and hanging out on the beach at sunset
• mountain bike the island roads/trails or up in Slagbaai National Park
• going to a small town, local restaurant for dinner
• check out the flamingos at the Salt Ponds
• get home made ice cream at Lover’s

Bonaire Seasonality

Water temperature in Bonaire varies little from 78-83 so there’s no need to avoid a cold time of year. Rainy season is in the fall mainly around the October time frame. Most of our trips to Bonaire have been in the November-February time frame and rarely have we encountered poor weather. It technically lies outside the hurricane belt but has seen occasional storms that have wreaked some havoc on the island and the surrounding reefs.

Bonaire underwater visibility

Visibility in the waters of Bonaire rarely drops below 60 feet and often exceeds 80, making it one of the more consistent Caribbean destinations.

Overall

Bonaire is so much more than the trite and rehashed magazine articles of the last 20 years. Yes, it has easy diving. Yes, it has some of the best shore diving in the world. Yes, it has pretty reefs. But it’s more, much more than that. It has something for the most inexperienced or most experienced divers you just may have to look beyond those articles. Use this as a guide. Talk to the locals. Make some friends and see the complete Bonaire that most people miss.

Sharkman and Mantagirl give Bonaire

Two Fins UP

Interested in traveling to Bonaire?  We are here to help by sharing our global expertise.  Create your own personalized diving adventure by requesting a risk free quote.  It’s easy and there’s no obligation.  Or, if you already know what you want, you can make a reservation.

Or, join us on a Guided Diving Adventure.

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Destination Guide Bonaire Extras! Making Travel Easy & Fun in Bonaire

PASSPORT AND HEALTH REQUIREMENTS

Passport

A valid passport or certified birth certificate and photo ID is required to enter and exit Bonaire for US and Canadian citizens. All other nationals must have a valid passport. Please make sure that your passport is valid for three months from the date of entry into the country and that you have enough space for entry/exit stamps. If you do not hold a valid passport, apply as soon as possible as it may take some time to receive. Always keep a copy of the face page of your passport located in a separate place than your passport. This safety tip also applies to your diving certification card. It is necessary to hold a return or ongoing ticket.

Visa/Departure Tax

No visa is required to enter Bonaire for US or Canadian citizens. As of this writing in 2010, departure tax of US$35 per person applies for all international departures.

Health

Bonaire is a healthy island and no special immunizations are required. A good source for any additional information is the Center for Disease Control in Atlanta. Call their 24 hour recorded Travelers Health Hotline at 404-332-4559, or toll-free information at 888-232-3228. The CDC also is on line at http:/www.cdc.gov.

 

Food

When traveling to foreign countries, take general common sense precautions with food. There are no restrictions on any food to avoid on Bonaire. Many of the food on the island is actually flown in from The Netherlands. Water on the island is distilled and purified seawater and is safe from the tap at resorts. If you have any concerns about drinking water, bottled water is always the safest bet.

GENERAL TRAVEL INFORMATION

Baggage Restrictions

There are no weird restrictions on Bonaire. Large jets fly into the island as well as puddle jumpers so just check with your airline

 

PRACTICAL INFORMATION ON BONAIRE

Electricity/Water

Electricity to all the main centers is 110 volt with American standard wall sockets. Water is completely safe to drink as it is distilled and purified seawater.

Tipping

We believe that tipping should be an individual decision based on your personal experience with staff and their service. Most dive masters expect to be tipped on Bonaire and we recommend a minimum of $10/diver/day. Also, always tip your bartender!

Telephone

Bonaire has modern telecommunication systems locally and internationally. You may dial from your room long distance using AT&T or MCI. A connection fee may apply so please check the in-room charge sheet for possible charges.

Fax

Fax service is available at most resorts for a fee. Email is also available on a per minute basis at most resorts (some are complimentary) and there are cyber cafes in Kralendijk.

Time Zones

Bonaire’s time varies with the time of year as they do not recognize daylight savings. Therefore from April to October, Bonaire is on EST (same as New York). From October to April, the time is one hour ahead of Eastern time.

Climate

The yearly average temperature on Bonaire is 82 degrees with 22 of rainfall mainly during the winter months. Average water temperature is 80 degrees!

Population

The population of Bonaire is currently around 15,000 inhabitants.

Language

While the official language of the island is Dutch, Papiamentu is the language spoken most frequently. Papiamentu is a combination of Spanish, Dutch, French, Portuguese, African and Indian. English is also widely spoken.

Economy

Tourism has become a main source of income for Bonaire as the dive industry flourishes there due to the marine park that keeps the reefs pristine. Salt is still also produced on the island.

Currency

The local currency is the Netherlands Antillean guilder of Nafl. Exchange as of June 2010 is 1 USD to 1.78 ANG

 

Bonaire-COUNTRY IN PROFILE

Bonaire is one of the ABC islands which include Aruba and Curacao. These islands comprise the Dutch Antilles and are Dutch owned. The island is located 80 km north of Venezuela and 45km east of Curacao at the southern end of the Caribbean sea, outside the hurricane zone. Bonaire, is nick-named the Flamingo Island owing to its population of 5,000-6,000 flamingos. Its unspoiled scenery and world-class diving are regularly ranked among the top 10 of the world’s dive destinations.

The northern section of the boomerang-shaped island is a combination of colorful hills and cactus-filled deserts. Many hills provide views of the terraces formed by the coral reefs which descend to the great plain in the south. The south is flat except for the hills of salt which serve as home and breeding grounds for the island’s flamingos.

BRIEF HISTORY OF BONAIRE

The name Bonaire comes from and Arawak Indian word, Bojnaj which means low-country. The island was inhabited by the friendly Arawaks when Spanish seafarer Americo Vespucci arrived in 1499.

From 1527-1633 Bonaire was established as a Spanish colony until the Dutch took control and created a military stronghold. During the Dutch rule the island’s main economy was salt mining. In order to supply the needed manpower for the salt industry, slaves were imported from Africa and other neighboring islands. Many of the old slave houses are still standing on the southwest corner of the island near the dive sites of  white slave and red slave.

For a short period beginning in the early 1800′s the British occupied the island but in 1816 the Dutch regained control. Finally in 1863 slavery was outlawed and in 1951 the Netherlands Antilles were granted self-rule.